What started as a simple work project during the 2020 lockdown transformed into a four-year labor of love for JoAnne Spiller, Director of Education at the Jefferson County History and Art Center in Madison, Indiana. While re-cataloging the museum’s 10,000-item database, Spiller stumbled upon two pieces of jewelry and a newspaper clipping that would change her life’s work forever.
The items belonged to Bill Smith, a Black jewelry designer from Madison who became a celebrated figure in 1950s and 60s New York fashion circles—yet had been largely forgotten by history.
Bringing Bill Smith Back to Life
William Franklin “Bill” Smith came from humble beginnings in small town Madison, Indiana and became a successful fine and costume jewelry designer. After studying art and dance at Indiana University, Smith moved to New York in 1953 to pursue dancing. When limited opportunities for Black dancers forced him to pivot, he turned his artistic talents to jewelry design.
The results were extraordinary. Smith designed costume jewelry for Broadway productions including “Coco” starring Katharine Hepburn, created pieces for socialites and models, and became the first Black vice president at renowned costume jewelry company Richelieu. His bold, sculptural designs found homes in prestigious collections at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Philadelphia Museum of Art, and Yale Art Library.
A Community Effort to Preserve Legacy
Spiller’s dedication to accuracy sets her work apart in an era of viral misinformation. Nearly 300 photographs, 10 editorial fashion photographs (out of more than the 200 that featured his work) and dozens of advertisements serve to authenticate Bill’s designs. She meticulously verified over 1,600 sources, creating separate spreadsheets for proven facts versus debunked myths.
“You don’t want to be caught in a lie,” Spiller explains. “I work for a museum and we’re supposed to be telling you the truth.”
The project became a true community effort. Local organizations like the Order of the Eastern Star and Ohio Valley Celtic Society provided funding for expensive magazine photo rights. Fellow jewelry designer Clifton Nicholson Jr., who worked with Smith, donated a shopping bag full of original designs he’d saved since 1970.
Beyond the Book: Creating Lasting Impact
Spiller’s work extends far beyond her book “Visionary Designs by Bill Smith, tj”. She’s curated traveling exhibits, with the Bill Smith collection recently displayed at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art—the first time her museum has ever loaned pieces to another institution.
Spiller retired in May 2025, her mission continues: ensuring Bill Smith’s pioneering contributions to American design history are never forgotten again.
Author JoAnne Spiller On the Web
Website: https://joannespiller.com/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/joanne_smith_spiller_author/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/joanne.s.spiller
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/joanne-spiller-6b830340/
X: https://x.com/spillersayswhat
View JoAnne Spiller on Jolenes Book and Writers Talk Podcast
Listen to the Interview on Apple Podcast
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